Engine Rebuild Questions!

[Petros]

yes, a tan, or lighter shade of brown would be good. There was a two tone brown/Topaz color combo option on some year's T4wd that looks good, might stay with that. Or even a light shade of gold/topaz kind of color. What ever you want, I have just come to notice that at the car shows engine compartments all prettied up look best when they have lighter colors. You can also choose a wild contrasting color, like canary yellow or a fusia-white color, just for fun.

[4wdEconoBox]

I went with an Almond color, it's real light, but it's got just a little shade of tan. Ive also got the brown that I may do a two tone type of job with both of them included. I'm not sure, I'll do some experimenting and see what I come up with, I'll post back with some results soon!

[4wdEconoBox]

So here are the end results! I still have some places to smooth out and a few overspray areas to fix, but overall I'm impressed! Should I put a coat of clear over it or should it be fine the way it is?

[Petros]

wow, nice job. clear coat will protect it, and make it glossy. I have seen many show cars engine compartments done that way with clear coat, looks sharp. but everything else has to be painted to match with plated shinny gold or silver or something so it all looks new.

it will look really cool when done.

[marlinh]

What an amazing amount of work! Looks great!

[BaileySims]

So sick! I wish I would have done this when I had my motor out last year. Sweet progress brotha!

[4wdEconoBox]

Thanks guys! I've still got to smooth and wet sand a few places, it's been rainy lately so I haven't had a chance... Once I get the cross member and everything back in I'll post pictures then too. I think she's gonna shine up realll nice!
Quick question, what would look better, silver engine block with black accessories or black block with silver accessories? All in gloss btw! I'm thinking silver block, with black would look best, since tranny and a intake is already silver. I don't know, let me know what y'all think!

[Petros]

go silver with the block. it will show up nicely. I even like bright colors on the block, like electric blue or red, with black accessories, it would look hot.

[4wdEconoBox]

That sounds like what I may do as long as I have time, and money haha.

I got the parts back from the machine shop earlier and plan on reassembling it tonight, maybe everything will go good!

I know how to break in the engine now after much research, but now I need to know if I need to break in the new clutch and flywheel as well... If I need to break them in, how do I do that especially since I plan on driving the heck out of the engine to seat the rings? Any pointers or advice on this?

[dlb]

new clutch and flywheel do not require any break-in.

[4wdEconoBox]

Ok good, I had read somewhere to take it easy for the first 500 miles with a new clutch a flywheel! Even though I didn't break in the clutch with my other car and it worked out just fine! Haha I'm just making sure I cover all of my grounds before mess something up, ya know!

[4wdEconoBox]

Ok, well I hope this doesn't mess everything up.... I just broke an oil pump bolt trying to torque it down, and I've already got everything else bolted and torqued on.....its the lower left one, is it going to be fine to run it without it?

[Gottolovem]

Can you drill it out and replace?

[4wdEconoBox]

I fixed it, I ended up drinking a good bit and got to the point of where I knew it would be a problem in the future so I redneck removed it. I took everything apart again hoping I could grab it with vice grips, but no dice. So it drilled it out with a small drill bit, and the only thing I had was tape that was a little bigger than the hole I drilled and got it out with it luckily! Then I found an oil pump bolt from my 3000GT that was a perfect fit! I think it was a stronger grade bolt but it worked just fine!! I got everything back together, and I've got a few more things to button up, but I should be able to drop her in tomorrow and possibly crank it up and break it in! I can't wait!!!

[teranfirbt]

New clutches don't need a take it easy break in period, but they do benefit from a good bedding in, much like brakes. It's actually good for the clutch to slip it more than normal for the first few times and get a good transfer of friction material into the pressure plate and flywheel. It's important to not overheat the friction disk since it'll glaze and lose friction.

The easiest way to get it right is to drive a little aggressively for 10 miles, running up and down in speed. On each shift, let the clutch slip just a little for a second or so before backing off the throttle to let it fully engage. At first the clutch will slip a bunch, but it'll get better after about 10 times. Once the clutch starts feeling good, drive it easy back and let everything cool down, should be rock solid for 100k miles after.